You have to use a small Allen wrench and it does take a while to tighten and loosen. As mentioned above, the one item I wish was different was how the router locks into the plunge base. After figuring this out, I didn’t mind the two wrenches. As time went on, I realized I didn’t have to tighten the collet like He-Man. When I first started using a router, I would always bust my knuckles when taking off a bit.
However for this router, I don’t mind using two wrenches because I am use to my first 690. I do like the idea of having a collet lock so you only need one wrench. Such as having to use two wrenches to change the bits. That was more my fault.Īgain, I am a fan of this router, but it does have some down falls that some people might not like.
I did find this to be true however after I dropped the unit, I did find my bits were harder to insert and remove from the unit. The router has an auto-release collet system which states it’s very easy to remove bits after use. The kit accepts both a 1/4″ and 1/2″ shank bits which is also easy to make the change. To power the unit on, there is a push button on/off which is protected by a dust cover to prolong life of the switch. The motor housing and base are made from machined aluminum so they are both strong and lightweight. This system is very cool and also reliable. There is also a 6 position adjustable turret which allows for step plunge cuts. Once the depth is set, you can be confident it will not move until the user makes an adjustment. For the plunge base, again, it’s very easy to set the depth. I find this method a little cumbersome and could have a better design, but I will touch on that in a bit.Īdjusting the depth is easy with the fix base cam lever and the micro adjustment. To get the router out, you have to take the screw all the way out. The user has to use a small Allen wrench to tighten the router into the base. There is a cam lever to adjust and lock it into place.
On the fixed base, inserting and locking the router is a snap. This router features an 11 amp motor with a peak of 1-3/4″ HP and has an rpm of 27,500. Mine has more of a rounded handle, while this has more of an oval handle which feels much better. The one thing I did notice from this to my older version is the grip. If something works great, why change it? The 690 is proven and liked by many. They question why Porter Cable is still using the old design. When you look at this router, you can pretty much see it’s the same router as I already own, which some people have complained about. So after all the beating I have put on the 690, I can’t say one bad thing about it. Yes I end up breaking a lot of bits and yes I know it’s dangerous doing it that way, but it’s just one of those things. I set that baby deep and rip through the wood. As an example when I use a straight router bit, if you have to make a deep cut, you should go in steps and you don’t need to go fast. When using a router, I know I am hard on them. In fact I am just plain mean to them and if any real wood worker saw how I used the router, they would probably slap me around. Well I am not really friendly to my routers. You may be wondering why I keep saying tough. It’s tough, easy to use and produces quality work. Actually I hate the case it came in, but the router is awesome.
I currently own a Porter Cable 690 that I bought around 2003 and I love this router. Which brings me to the Porter Cable 693LRPK which is a router with a plunge base. I just want a tough, easy to use and quality router. So for me, I don’t need the high end router. Now I can’t say I am a hardcore woodworker, but I have built my share of tables, cabinet doors and more. Well not a whole building, but I think you get my point. You can create designs on the face of wood, build shelves, tables or just about anything your mind can think of. Routers are one of those tools that can make your work really stand out.
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